St andrews cross plans

St Andrews Cross Plans

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St andrews cross plans

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Note that while some of the pieces are physically interchangeable in terms of length and cut angles, it's still preferable to cut the pieces specifically for their intended position in the finished piece in order to ensure the "good" side of the lumber used is always facing outwards.

For the first cuts, start with the long arms of the cross. All four ends of these boards will be cut to a The direction of the angled cuts must be such that when the boards are joined in the middle in an 'X', the angled cuts lie flat on the floor not with a point touching the groups and the tops are parallel to the ceiling.

For the cross arm boards, the angles should both go the same direction:. When you select the direction for cuts, ensure that when the boards are crossed the "good" sides of each board will be opposite each other -- that is pointing away from the point where the boards touch in the middle.

The other side of each board will be covered with a smaller laminated piece, so placing the "bad" side of the lumber at the inside of the intersection ensures it won't be visible in the final piece.

To start, set a miter saw to Just snip off the minimal amount to leave a cut the full width of the board. If you're using a miter saw especially if it has a laser guide , this single center point may be enough to make the cut.

The two angled cuts should run the same direction, so you'll slide the board straight down through your saw as you position it for the second cut.

For the shorter cross arm, repeat the same procedure with the shorter You should flip this board before making any cuts so the "good" side is pointed the opposite direction from the first board so that both "bad" sides will be inside when the boards are finally put together.

Next up, you'll need to cut the four shorter pieces which will laminate with the two arms to give a stiffer final product. Each of the boards will cover one half the length of one arm.

Like the longer arms, the total lengths each pair of boards will be the same as the cross arms, but parts of that length are "cut out" by the overlapping pattern of the cross.

Remember to cut the boards so that the good sides are out when the boards are glued together. These all have Two of these boards should be the length of A or Again, the angles are cut to The tolerances on the various glued angles are relatively tight, so you'll want to lay everything out dry on a nice flat surface before gluing anything.

It pretty much only works one way, so make sure all the points where pieces meets are perfectly tight before you glue anything. If you need to make adjustments, this is your only chance.

If you have enough clamps, clamping everything together dry, then unclamping, glueing, and reclamping one piece at a time will give the quickest, best results.

The order pieces are glued together doesn't much matter, so do whatever seems to work the best for you. As more of the pieces get locked together, you should see the rest of the parts start fitting only one way.

Once all the glue has set, you should drill the boards at the corners and the middle if you didn't already before you glued , and fit eye bolts with a washer on either side to each corner and a carriage bolt or two in the middle to hold the cross arms together.

At this point, the cross is structurally complete and could be used leaned or preferably attached via chain or rope to a wall or ceiling.

To finish your cross, you'll need to sand and apply some sort of coating. Depending on the quality of the wood used and your tastes, you could either use an opaque paint in any color you like or apply a clear or tinted urethane to allow the natural wood grain to show through.

Once the basic cross is completed, numerous options exist to customize it to your own tastes and uses. The basic cross contains four-point attachment at the corners to hold the cross together.

Leather or nylon straps might be attached to the cross to strap the submissive down at various points along their body.

Use your imagination and post pics to FetLife! Being cuffed to a cross can get tiring for the submissive's shoulders and back.

Using suspension cuffs with built-in hand holds can allow the submissive to redistribute weight in a more comfortable fashion. If normal cuffs are to be used, one option is to run a length of chain or rope between the two top attachment points on the cross arms.

The chain should droop low enough to be within the submissive's reach and provides a handle to pull up some of the weight making longer periods on the cross more comfortable.

While I've not yet attempted to adapt foot rests to this design, Douglas Kent's excellent Better Built Bondage Book strongly recommends ensuring that any furniture be designed in such a way that the submissive cannot exert force against the ground or anything other than the furniture itself.

Firmly attached foot rests would allow the submissive to struggle significantly without being able to apply force to the ground which might result in the cross tipping over and causing injury.

The safest, most secure mounting for this design would be to attach it to a ceiling or wall using chain run to hard restraint points, over floor joists, etc.

Be certain to take into consideration that a thrashing submissive may generate a fair amount of force particularly if they can touch the floor , so your attachment points must be sturdy.

Ideally, consider using points that would be adequate for a full suspension. If the cross is to be used freestanding, a tripod leg assembly can be added to allow use in the middle of a room or a field When used with legs, the cross should be carefully monitored to ensure the submissive's movements won't tip the cross over.

Adding the tripod is fairly simple. The hinge is bolted to the back side of the cross at the middle and runs backwards to stand the cross.

For stability, bolt an additional piece of lumber at the bottom of the leg perpendicular to it. This provides a wider base instead of just a single point.

In order to keep the leg in place, add additional eyebolts to the sides of the leg base and attach the bottom sides of the leg to the bottom of the cross using chain.

The angle of tilt can be controlled by adjusting the length of the chains. Given that the lumber and other materials to build the full-size cross can cost a couple of hundred dollars, it's highly advisable to build a prototype of the cross first to ensure you understand how the overlaps work.

For the most basic first attempt, cutting strips of paper and taping them together can show how the various angles must be oriented to each other.

Hopefully the above is useful in building your very own dungeon furniture. If you have any questions or run into trouble or especially if you've noticed any errors in my math, feel free to email me at [pendor at pendor bound dot com] or message me on FetLife.

And definitely consider posting pics of your cross, either during construction or in use! Find recent content on the main index or look in the archives to find all content.

Saint Andrews Cross. Calculator A JavaScript based calculator which applies the math below is available here: Saint Andrews Cross Calculator Materials Materials requirements for the cross are fairly basic.

Basic Math The hourglass shape of this cross means that all of the math is based on triangles. Selection by total height If the total cross height is the more important attribute, you're starting with B and working back to figure out the triangles.

Optional extras Once the basic cross is completed, numerous options exist to customize it to your own tastes and uses.

Attachment Points The basic cross contains four-point attachment at the corners to hold the cross together. Leading supplier of clavos, wrought iron rustic hardware, dummy faux hinges, barn door handles gate latches, gate hardware, decorative nails, slide bolts, speakeasy grilles and much more.

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This piece is usually supplied with a galvanised finish but is also available in bronze. The 2" Floral Pull is a decorative drawer pull, hand forged from wrought iron.

Grabbing your attention, this pull features a thick ring, paired with a delicate, flower shaped backing. Creating a unique contrast between feminine and masculine accents, the thick ring is bold, while the flower backplate shows off small details, only visible up close.

Paired with any dresser, armoire, or night stand, these ring pulls are a fun addition if you are looking for a mix of soft and bold design….

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A Classic designed collapsible whipping bench with Knee,calf and torso pads It is very rigid with 4 main shackling points,It also comes with hooks to attach restraints to.

The hooks are not attached so you can position in the best place for your partner. The padded open splayed legs and padded chest plate make it comfortable for long term sessions and provide access to the genital.

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